TLDR
Comuna 13, once one of Medellín’s most dangerous neighborhoods, has transformed into a cultural hub and popular tourist destination. The area underwent a significant change starting in 2006, with investments in infrastructure like outdoor escalators and a cable car system to connect residents from remote areas to the public transportation system and improve their’quality of life. Today, Comuna 13 is famous for its colorful street art that tells the story of past struggles and hopes for the future. Visitors are encouraged to take guided tours, stay on the main paths, and explore the area’s (violent) history and culture. For more insight, watch the documentary “El Testigo” on Netflix.
Comuna 13
Comuna 13, also known as San Javier, is one of Medellín’s most well-known neighborhoods, alongside El Poblado and Laureles. In the past, it was considered one of the city’s most dangerous areas. However, Comuna 13 has significantly transformed recently and is now a popular tourist spot. The Medellín city government contributed by upgrading infrastructure and offering financial assistance to residents who wanted to paint their homes.
Origins of Comuna 13
Comuna 13 in Medellín is a densely populated neighborhood that climbs up the western hills of the city, filled with thousands of closely packed brick and cement homes. Once a hotspot for paramilitary, guerrilla, and gang activity, its location made it ideal for crime, as it connects directly to the San Juan Highway, a key route for moving guns, drugs, and money.
The neighborhood began as an illegal settlement in the 1960s and 70s when around 1,500 families, displaced by conflict from different parts of Antioquia, made their homes here. The area was unplanned, with houses made from basic materials and no access to running water or electricity. Comuna 13 gained notoriety in the 1980s and 90s during Colombia’s drug and gang era. Its edge-of-city location and maze-like streets made it a perfect hideout and transit point for drug traffickers, guerrillas, and gangs. Armed groups like the ELN and FARC fought for control of the area, and it soon fell under the influence of the Medellín Cartel, led by Pablo Escobar.
In the early 2000s, the Colombian government launched a series of military operations to eliminate guerrilla activity in the area. This “clean-up” began in 2002 under President Álvaro Uribe, with operations like Mariscal and Orion aiming to remove paramilitary groups. Many innocent civilians were caught in the violence; at least 20 people died, around 250 were arrested, and many more disappeared. Operation Orion, Colombia’s largest urban military operation, deployed over 1,500 troops and resulted in dozens of deaths, injuries, and arrests. Launched in October 2002 and extending into 2003, it left a lasting impact on the community. Today, many murals in Comuna 13 depict its aftermath.
Despite this challenging past, change began in 2006 when Mayor Sergio Fajardo Valderrama took a new approach, investing in infrastructure to improve living conditions. Projects like the new metro station in 2008 and outdoor escalators in 2011 helped connect Comuna 13 with the rest of the city. This strategy, focused on community involvement, proved much more effective than military force.
Today, Comuna 13 is a different place. With better access and improved infrastructure, the neighborhood’s reputation has shifted. It has become safer, and its streets are now filled with children playing and artists creating. Tourism is vital in continuing positive social change, helping the community grow and thrive.
The Transformation
“Comuna 13 is the best example of social transformation, where a single project can create a ripple effect,” said a community leader. “The escalators made people feel like they were part of something bigger, something they owned.”
Today, the outdoor escalators are one of Medellín’s top tourist attractions. While they draw visitors, their significance runs deeper. They marked the start of change, symbolizing hope for the community. A similar shift happened in the 1990s with the construction of Medellín’s metro.
In 2006, the mayor of Medellín began transforming Comuna 13 through massive infrastructure investments to improve residents’ quality of life. The focus wasn’t on tourism but on connecting isolated neighborhoods to the rest of the city, reducing crime, and creating better opportunities for those living there.
A cable car system was built in 2008 to help residents commute more efficiently, saving them a lot of time and providing new opportunities by making transportation more convenient. Unlike typical tourist attractions, Medellín’s cable cars were designed to improve the lives of local people.
The city also built a library park, offering access to computers, books, and outdoor green spaces. Then, in 2011, a unique series of covered outdoor escalators was installed in the heart of Comuna 13. These escalators replaced a climb of about 350 steep steps, reducing commute times and allowing less mobile residents to move around safely. A viaduct was also constructed, giving motorcyclists and pedestrians a safe path through the community.
In 2013, these efforts helped Medellín earn the title “Most Innovative City in the World.”
Comuna 13 Today
Today, Comuna 13 is the most visited place in Medellín, attracting thousands of tourists daily. Visiting is generally safe as long as you use common sense. Like anywhere in Colombia, keep an eye on your valuables (carry as little as possible), and if you have a backpack, consider wearing it on your front. The most important thing to remember when exploring Comuna 13 is to stay on the main walkways. The streets can feel like a maze, and getting lost or accidentally wandering onto private property is easy.
While visiting, you’ll find a community filled with street art, music, and performances. The colorful murals covering the walls tell the stories of the neighborhood’s past. Local artists and guides offer tours to share the area’s history and culture, providing an authentic look at life in Comuna 13.
Graffiti in Comuna 13
Every piece of street art in Comuna 13 has meaning, telling a story of the neighborhood’s past and its dreams for the future. The area has dozens of large-scale murals, especially around the escalators. Almost any surface can become a canvas, from walls to doors and staircases. For a local artist to paint a mural, they must first get permission from the community’s lead artists and the owner of the building.
Visitors can take graffiti tours led by local guides who explain the meaning behind each mural. The artwork reflects the neighborhood’s resilience and spirit, making Comuna 13 a compelling place to see and learn about Medellín’s transformation.
Famous artists
While Chota13 is the most well-known artist from Comuna 13, many others have also contributed to the neighborhood’s vibrant street art scene. His work stands out for its bold colors and powerful imagery, often depicting themes of resistance, culture, and hope. His distinctive style has made him a key figure in the community.
Other notable artists include YesGraff, known for murals that focus on peace and social justice. His work features vibrant colors and intricate designs that tell stories of resilience and unity. Yorch.Art takes a different approach, blending surrealist elements with local symbols to create thought-provoking pieces that reflect the community’s struggles and hopes.
@chota13
@YesGraff
@Yorch.Art
What Time Should I Visit Comuna 13?
The best time to visit Comuna 13 is in the morning. There are two main reasons for this: first, the area gets busier in the afternoon, and second if it’s cloudy, it can become foggier later in the day.
Due to Medellín’s high altitude, about 5,000 feet (1,500 meters) above sea level, and its unique microclimate, the city often has poor visibility. High humidity and low clouds can make the skies look gray and block your view.
Most tours of Comuna 13 start around 9 a.m. or 10 a.m. If you’re booking a private tour and can choose your start time, picking one of these earlier slots is a good idea.
How to Get to Comuna 13
The closest metro station to Comuna 13 is San Javier, the last stop on the east-west Metro Line B.
To get to San Javier from Poblado Metro Station, take Line A (the red line) towards Niquía and ride for four stops until you reach San Antonio Station. Here, you’ll switch to Line B and continue to the final stop, San Javier.
It’s about a 20-30 minute uphill walk from San Javier station to reach the escalators and the main street art area. Alternatively, you can take bus 225i or 221i to make the journey easier. To find the bus, exit the metro station, turn right, and look for the green bus stop at the traffic lights.
Most group tours of Comuna 13 meet at San Javier Metro Station, so you don’t have to worry about navigating alone. Meet your guide, and they will lead you through the neighborhood.
While at San Javier station, consider riding one of the MetroCables. The cable car from San Javier is a favorite because it takes you up, down, and back up again, offering a variety of viewpoints over this part of the city.
If you want to learn more about Comuna 13’s history and transformation, consider watching the documentary El Testigo (The Witness) on Netflix. This film provides a deeper look into the events that shaped this neighborhood and its people’s resilience.
Book and Tour Recommendations
Books:
– District 13: The Drama of the Armed Conflict in Medellín, Colombia
This book tells the story of the human experiences of thousands of people affected by the armed conflict in Comuna 13, a district of Medellín.
– Comuna 13: Art and Culture as a Means of Social Transformation” (Foreword by J Balvin)
This book describes the incredible changes in Comuna 13 brought about by art and culture, highlighting the efforts of residents.
