TLDR
Comuna 13, once one of Medellín’s most dangerous neighborhoods, has transformed into a vibrant cultural hub and popular tourist destination. The area underwent a significant change starting in 2006, with investments in infrastructure like outdoor escalators and a cable car system to improve residents’ quality of life. Today, Comuna 13 is famous for its colorful street art that tells the story of past struggles and hopes for the future. Visitors are encouraged to take guided tours, stay on the main paths, and explore the area’s rich history and culture. For more insight, watch the documentary “El Testigo” on Netflix.
Table of Contents
Comuna 13, also known as San Javier, is one of Medellín’s most well-known neighborhoods, alongside El Poblado. In the past, it was considered one of the city’s most dangerous areas. However, Comuna 13 has undergone a significant transformation in recent years and is now a popular spot for tourists. The Medellín City Government helped by building outdoor escalators on the steep hillsides and providing financial support to residents who wanted to paint their houses.
Origins of Comuna 13
Comuna 13 in Medellín is a densely populated neighborhood that climbs up the western hills of the city, filled with thousands of closely packed brick and cement homes. Once a hotspot for paramilitary, guerrilla, and gang activity, its location made it ideal for crime, as it connects directly to the San Juan Highway, a key route for moving guns, drugs, and money.
The neighborhood began as an illegal settlement in the 1960s and 70s when around 1,500 families, displaced by conflict from different parts of Antioquia, made their homes here. The area was unplanned, with houses made from basic materials and no access to running water or electricity. Comuna 13 gained notoriety in the 1980s and 90s during Colombia’s drug and gang era. Its edge-of-city location and maze-like streets made it a perfect hideout and transit point for drug traffickers, guerrillas, and gangs. Paramilitary groups like the ELN and FARC fought for control of the area, and it soon fell under the influence of the Medellín Cartel, led by Pablo Escobar.
In the early 2000s, the Colombian government launched a series of military operations to eliminate guerrilla activity in the area. This “clean-up” began in 2002 under President Álvaro Uribe, with operations like Mariscal and Orion aiming to remove paramilitary groups. Many innocent civilians were caught in the violence; at least 20 people died, around 250 were arrested, and many more disappeared. Operation Orion, the largest urban military operation in Colombia, involved over 1,500 troops and left dozens dead, injured, or arrested. The operation occurred in October 2002 but continued into 2003, leaving a deep scar on the community.
Despite this challenging past, change began in 2006 when Mayor Sergio Fajardo Valderrama took a new approach, investing in infrastructure to improve living conditions. Projects like the new metro station in 2008 and outdoor escalators in 2011 helped connect Comuna 13 with the rest of the city. This strategy, focused on community involvement, proved much more effective than military force.
Today, Comuna 13 is a different place. With better access and improved infrastructure, the neighborhood’s reputation has shifted. It has become safer, and its streets are now filled with children playing and artists creating. Tourism is vital in continuing positive social change, helping the community grow and thrive.
The Transformation
“Comuna 13 is the best example of social transformation, where a single project can create a ripple effect,” said a community leader. “The escalators made people feel like they were part of something bigger, something they owned.”
Today, the outdoor escalators are one of the most visited sites in Medellín. While they are often credited for attracting tourists, their impact goes much deeper. The escalators marked the beginning of change, symbolizing hope for the people there.
In 2006, the mayor of Medellín began transforming Comuna 13 through massive infrastructure investments to improve residents’ quality of life. The focus wasn’t on tourism but on connecting isolated neighborhoods to the rest of the city, reducing crime, and creating better opportunities for those living there.
A cable car system was built in 2008 to help residents commute more efficiently, saving them a lot of time and providing new opportunities by making transportation more convenient. Unlike typical tourist attractions, Medellín’s cable cars were designed to improve the lives of local people. These innovative systems played a massive role in uniting the city and symbolized change and hope.
The city also built a library park, offering access to computers, books, and outdoor green spaces. Then, in 2011, a unique series of covered outdoor escalators was installed in the heart of Comuna 13. These escalators replaced a climb of about 350 steep steps, reducing commute times and allowing less mobile residents to move around safely. A viaduct was also constructed, giving motorcyclists and pedestrians a safe path through the community.
In 2013, these efforts helped Medellín earn the title “Most Innovative City in the World.”
Comuna 13 Today
Today, Comuna 13 is the most visited place in Medellín, attracting thousands of tourists daily. Visiting is generally safe as long as you use common sense. Like anywhere in Colombia, keep an eye on your valuables, and if you have a backpack, consider wearing it on your front. The most important thing to remember when exploring Comuna 13 is to stay on the main walkways. The streets can feel like a maze, and getting lost or accidentally wandering onto private property is easy.
While visiting, you’ll find a vibrant community filled with street art, music, and performances. The colorful murals covering the walls tell the stories of the neighborhood’s past and present, reflecting its struggles and hopes. Local artists and guides offer tours to share the area’s history and culture, providing an authentic look at life in Comuna 13.
What was once known for violence and conflict is now celebrated for its resilience and creativity. Comuna 13’s transformation shows how a community can reclaim its identity and turn adversity into an opportunity for growth and renewal.
Graffiti in Comuna 13
Every piece of street art in Comuna 13 has meaning, telling a story of the neighborhood’s past and its dreams for the future. The area has dozens of large-scale murals, especially around the escalators. Almost any surface can become a canvas, from walls to doors and staircases. For a local artist to paint a mural, they must first get permission from the community’s lead artists and the owner of the building. These murals are not just for decoration; they are a way to honor the past and express hope for what lies ahead.
Visitors can join one of the many graffiti tours offered by local guides, who explain the significance of each artwork in detail. These tours provide insight into the rich history and culture of Comuna 13, revealing how street art has become a powerful tool for storytelling, healing, and community building. Each mural reflects the resilience and spirit of the people who call this neighborhood home, making Comuna 13 an inspiring place to visit and learn about Medellín’s ongoing transformation.
Famous artists
While Chota13 is perhaps the most famous artist to emerge from Comuna 13, several other talented artists have also left their mark on the neighborhood. Chota13’s work is known for its bold colors and striking imagery that captures the spirit of the community. His pieces often highlight themes of resistance, culture, and hope, and his distinctive style has made him a local legend.
Other notable artists include YesGraff, whose work often explores peace and social justice themes. YesGraff’s murals are characterized by their vibrant colors and intricate designs, which tell stories of resilience and unity. Yorch.Art brings a different style to the walls of Comuna 13, combining surrealist elements with local symbols to create thought-provoking art that reflects the community’s challenges and aspirations.
These artists, and many others, have played a significant role in transforming Comuna 13 into an open-air gallery, where each mural serves as a conversation between the past and the present and between the residents and those who come to learn about their stories. Through their art, they continue to celebrate Comuna 13’s resilience and creativity, turning the neighborhood into a symbol of hope and renewal.
@chota13
@YesGraff
@Yorch.Art
What Time Should I Visit Comuna 13?
The best time to visit Comuna 13 is in the morning. There are two main reasons for this: first, the area gets busier in the afternoon, and second if it’s cloudy, it can become foggier later in the day.
Due to Medellín’s high altitude, about 5,000 feet (1,500 meters) above sea level, and its unique microclimate, the city often has poor visibility. High humidity and low clouds can make the skies look gray and block your view.
Most tours of Comuna 13 start around 9 a.m. or 10 a.m. If you’re booking a private tour and can choose your start time, picking one of these earlier slots is a good idea.
How to Get to Comuna 13
The closest metro station to Comuna 13 is San Javier, the last stop on the east-west Metro Line B.
To get to San Javier from Poblado Metro Station, take Line A (the red line) towards Niquía and ride for four stops until you reach San Antonio Station. Here, you’ll switch to Line B and continue to the final stop, San Javier.
It’s about a 20-30 minute uphill walk from San Javier station to reach the escalators and the main street art area. Alternatively, you can take bus 225i or 221i to make the journey easier. To find the bus, exit the metro station, turn right, and look for the green bus stop at the traffic lights.
Most group tours of Comuna 13 meet at San Javier Metro Station, so you don’t have to worry about navigating alone. Meet your guide, and they will lead you through the neighborhood.
While at San Javier station, consider riding one of the MetroCables. The cable car from San Javier is a favorite because it takes you up, down, and back up again, offering a variety of viewpoints over this part of the city.
Conclusion
If you want to learn more about Comuna 13’s history and transformation, consider watching the documentary El Testigo (The Witness) on Netflix. This film provides a deeper look into the events that shaped this neighborhood and its people’s resilience.
Whether the street art draws you, the stories of transformation, or simply the vibrant culture, Comuna 13 offers a unique experience that captures both the struggles and the spirit of Medellín.
Book and Tour Recommendations
Books:
– District 13: The Drama of the Armed Conflict in Medellín, Colombia
This book tells the story of the human experiences of thousands of people affected by the armed conflict in Comuna 13, a district of Medellín.
– Comuna 13: Art and Culture as a Means of Social Transformation” (Foreword by J Balvin)
This book describes the incredible changes in Comuna 13 brought about by art and culture, highlighting the efforts of residents.
Tours:
– Comuna 13 Graffiti Tour with Street Food
Explore Comuna 13’s street art with a local guide while learning about its history, including the world’s largest urban mass grave. As part of this unique tour, enjoy local street food.
– Comuna 13 Graffiti Tour
Join a group tour with a local guide to see Comuna 13’s street art. Learn how the neighborhood transformed from a dangerous area to a popular tourist spot, interact with local artists, and try snacks from street vendors.
– Pablo and Comuna 13 with Cable Car
This private tour focuses on the history of Pablo Escobar and Comuna 13. A private tour offers personalized attention and a flexible itinerary, allowing you to explore freely and ask questions about Medellín’s history, culture, architecture, and arts.
